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Oct 15, 2024

The 5 best things we ate in the Twin Cities area this week

Eat & Drink Sushi, burrito bowls, short stacks and more were on our minds as we ate our way through the metro. By Joy Summers, Nancy Ngo and Nicole Hvidsten We had already nibbled on edamame and

Eat & Drink

Sushi, burrito bowls, short stacks and more were on our minds as we ate our way through the metro.

By Joy Summers,

Nancy Ngo and

Nicole Hvidsten

We had already nibbled on edamame and tempura vegetables and were slurping on pork belly-kimchi ramen that we had already earmarked for tomorrow’s lunch when our server told us we’d better make some room: Our sushi order was almost ready. Turns out we got a little carried away in our roll selection, and when the exquisite boat of sushi landed — flashing lights and all — we were giddy.

Aboard the boat was the Salmon Family Roll ($15.95), the Pink Lady Roll ($17.95, alas, named for the pink soy paper employed, not the movie “Grease”), the spicy Asian Tiger ($17.95) and our favorite, the chef’s special Dancing Lobster Roll ($22). Everything about it was near perfection: crispy but delicate lobster tempura and firm pieces of asparagus were cozied up inside the roll, which was topped with ripened-just-right mango slices. Mango and eel sauces enhanced but didn’t overpower, and tobiko (roe) was a snappy addition, tying all the textures together.

This newish sushi and ramen gem opened in late 2022, in the former Vina Restaurant. Looking back, it’s no-frills on the décor side, but with the genuinely warm service and the beautifully plated food, we didn’t even notice. (Nicole Hvidsten)

6401 Nicollet Av. S., Richfield, katakisushi.com

The concept sounds familiar: Select tacos, burritos, rice or salad bowls and then customize your order with fixings as you head down the line. However, the Latin-inspired, fast-casual Puralima Cantina aims to distinguish itself. Like its sibling Crisp and Green, the locally owned outfit with three metro-area outposts emphasizes whole, healthy ingredients.

During a recent visit to the Edina location in the 50th and France commercial district, we tried the bowl ($8.75-$12.75), starting with a choice of white or brown rice and pinto or black beans, opting for the latter in each category. Of the half-dozen proteins and more than a dozen topping choices, we had no regrets about the decision to go with grilled chicken marinated in flavorful achiote. We were also pleased with our topping selections of romaine lettuce and pickled onions that we dressed/doused with chipotle cashew cream, pineapple pico and guajillo salsa (decisions are hard). It was a light and bright flavor profile with a smoky kick and a fun, delicious way to cover several healthy food groups in one sitting.

And there’s more to come from the concept that debuted in Minneapolis’ North Loop and has since expanded to Edina and Wayzata. According to the website, Puralima outposts are “coming soon” to Eden Prairie, Maple Grove, Blaine and Woodbury. (Nancy Ngo)

3925 W. 50th St., Edina; 740 E. Lake St., Wayzata; 548 Washington Av. N., Mpls.; puralima.com

In these deeply divided times, it’s important to remember the power of table pancakes. That’s the extra order of a short stack placed in the center of the table to share with friends. Because no matter where one falls on the spectrum of beliefs, we can all agree that we want pancakes.

The short stack ($12.99) at Leela on 8 is part of the daily breakfast and lunch offerings at this new cafe at the intersection of Old Hwy. 8 and County Road D in New Brighton. These are delicious, the just-right plush interior contrasted with a paper thin toasted layer on top and bottom.

Then there’s the power that table pancakes wield. With them no one must decide between pancakes or an order of savory ropa vieja benny, a chorizo-topped bacon cheeseburger or hearty-sized entree salad and something sweet. Right now, restaurant hours are limited to daytime. However, soon it will extend to dinner service with an expanded menu. Plus, there’s a gorgeous patio. (Joy Summers)

Eat & Drink

Eat & Drink

Eat & Drink

781 Old Hwy. 8, New Brighton; leelaon8mn.com

With a relative in town with roots in Hue, checking out Eat Street Crossing food hall’s new spot specializing in Bun bo Hue, the spicy Vietnamese beef noodle soup dish, was the perfect place to land.

At House of Hue, egg rolls ($5.50 for two), bành mí sandwiches ($6.50) as well as Bun bo Hue in a few varieties — traditional beef as well as pork and vegan — are offered. The popular order in our group was the traditional ($17.95), in which my relative gave an enthusiastic thumbs up to authenticity. Having visited Hue in central Vietnam, eating the dish every time I could get my hands on it, I also appreciated and reminisced about how deep and balanced the flavors could run — the beef broth infused with dried chiles for heat and aromatics such as lemongrass and onions for citrus and sweet. Cubes of beef shank were fall-apart tender, shrimp balls offered a lighter alternative between bites and bone marrow collagen was discarded by some at our table, eaten by others. Either way, each bowl is a generous serving, and we ended up having leftovers.

Henry and Pamela Tran know their stuff. The couple helmed a Houston restaurant (now run by their successors) specializing in the famous dish from Hue, where Henry was born and raised. They relocated from Texas to the Midwest to be closer to family and decided to come out of retirement. “It’s their passion. It’s a labor of love to make it,” said their daughter Audrey Tran. Their passion, our gain. (N.N.)

House of Hue at Eat Street Crossing, 2819 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls., eatstreetcrossing.com

This is a season of great smells. The freshness from crunchy fallen leaves, backyard bonfires and, as we approach the end of the month, marigolds and pan de muerto. The traditional Mexican bread is part of the ofrenda spread put out to celebrate and commune with family on the other side during Dia de los Muertos. Traditionally, it’s made with an enriched bread dough mixed with orange zest and then coated in sugar. At the new Hola Coffee, all those flavors are found in latte form ($5.50), where a sweet orange perfume and a hint of sugar beckon from the espresso and milk beverage.

It’s the work of Vanessa Palestino, who started her business as a coffee cart before opening this storefront in late September. Also stocked inside are coffee beans sourced from Latin America and sweet treats from RMY Patisserie. Empanada fans will be stoked to find that those from Boludo are sold here, heated on the spot and served with a side of chimichurri.

The latte is one of two “secret” menu items right now. Like the thinned veil between the living and the dead, this drink is only available for a short time: until Nov. 3. (J.S.)

326 Central Av. SE., Mpls.; holacoffeempls.com

Joy Summers is a St. Paul-based food reporter who has been covering Twin Cities restaurants since 2010. She joined the Star Tribune in 2021.

Nancy Ngo is the Star Tribune assistant food editor.

Nicole Ploumen Hvidsten is the Star Tribune's senior Taste editor. In past journalistic lives she was a reporter, copy editor and designer — sometimes all at once — and has yet to find a cookbook she doesn't like.

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